Five Go Sailing The Rias

     Zoe our daughter, her boyfriend Tom & Ginny's sister Louise arrived safely at Vigo late on Sunday night after a good flight, bus and train trip. Bags were quickly dropped off on the boat and they were soon enjoying the delights of a delicious Galician tapas a short distance from Kisti Two. It was a slow start to Monday 16 September but we were soon off for Vilagarcia due to the weather dictating the weeks plan. Strong winds to start then calmer waters later. We left at 1130 and the wind appeared on cue as normal at 1300 hrs giving us the chance to sail. The motion soon had Tom reaching for the bucket and he was to remain horizontal for the next 4 hours sailing while Zoe was sunbathing as we tacked our course northwards. The wind dropped at 1700 hrs which gave Tom a chance to take the wheel which helped speed up his recovery. A customs boat roared up behind us in a classic approach with the sun behind them. We were boarded by a very apologetic and friendly chap who filled in his form with our help and gave us a copy at the end with the comment ' One more for your collection!' Shortly after we were tied up in Vilagarcia at 1930 hrs having completed 45 NM. Not bad for a first days trip.

New Crew All Briefed Up Leaving Vigo
Louise, Zoe, Guy & Tom.

Tom At The Wheel Recovering
With Zoe & Louise Enjoying The Views.

     The 'Five' were split up on Tuesday 17 September. The two archaeologists, Zoe & Tom visited Santiago De Compostela where they clearly had a wonderful time including hugging St James The Apostle in the cathedral and more Tapas! Ginny and Louise pumped up the bikes and departed on a coastal bicycle ride leaving Guy to relax on the boat and enjoy a bit of peace.

Louise Enjoying A Quick Break And The
Views On Her Bicycle Ride.

     We all departed Vilagarcia on Wednesday 18 September at 1100 hrs with Tom loaded up with stugeron. We tried to sail but lack of wind forced a long motor south round to Ria De Pontevedra. Zoe and Tom were given plenty of rope knot instructions and tests along the way to assist with berthing and fender work. A dolphin was spied by Zoe at 1400 hrs then later on when sailing along with very light winds and Tom at the wheel, a whole school of dolphins were spotted. Guy took over the yacht, sailed towards and around them as the rest of the crew snapped away and marvelled at the wonderful sight of around 20 of them swimming around. Zoe was in heaven. We left them after about 45 minutes and were tied up in Combarro again at 1800 hrs. We met up with sailing friends Bill & Allie from 'Fallen Angel' and went for a walk through the lovely fishing village before stopping at our old restaurant for a superb tapas for 7. The charming lady proprietor gave each of us samples of 3 different types of local tipple for free so it was a very happy crew who returned to Kisti Two. 

Zoe & Tom On Dolphin Watch.

A Few Of The Dolphins Beside Kisti Two.

Two Dolphins About To Swim Under Kisti Two.
A Wonderful Experience.

  Thursday 19 September was another cultural day visiting the historical area of Pontevedra. Zoe and Tom clearly enjoyed their walk around while Ginny showed Louise all the sights. Guy needless to say went to our favourite tapas bar to reserve a table and waited for the others to complete their tours. 

The Happy Crew Go On A Culture Tour

Tom Can Smile!
Happy Days.

Statue To The Parrot Who Used To Contribute
To Political Debate In The Square.

    We departed Cambarro on Friday for the Islands and once again it wasn't long before about 50 dolphins in groups of about five were spotted all over the Ria. Guy meandered around while they put on a wonderful display and cameras snapped away to the sounds of ahhh and oohhhh. We had to leave after 45 minutes again, but due to swell and strong winds predicted overnight Kisti Two went round to anchor in Barra Bay away from the swell. Louise bravely had a swim at sunset but was not followed by the others. It was only 17C!

What A Wonderful Sight.

Such A Peaceful And Loving Face.

So Beautiful.

   On Saturday, Tom & Zoe rowed ashore in the morning. Tom went for a walk out to the headland lighthouse while Zoe had a peaceful time on the beach reading and shell hunting. She also managed a quick swim until a crab sighting forced a hasty retreat. The rest of us all had a quick swim on their return including Tom who came out quicker than he went in!! We then motored a short hop to Isla Cies where we anchored along with many others. Ginny, Louise & Tom went ashore for a long walk up to the lighthouse while Zoe and Guy relaxed on Kisti Two. We observed a speed boat drift past us dragging its anchor and another loose its tender dingy as it motored off! The final night anchored out concluded with the inevitable BBQ and the most glorious sunset. 

Ginny Swimming Above The Cold Sea!!

Zoe Rowing To The Beach

Isla St Martin From The Lighthouse Of Isla Cies

Louise Enjoying The View From Isla Cies

Isla Cies Atlantic Coast 

The BBQ!

Sunset Starts

Sunset Ends

      It was an early start on Sunday to escape the swell and return to Vilagarcia. Tom and Louise were not well so as they lay down below, Ginny and Zoe had a lovely time together chatting at the back of Kisti Two. We returned mostly under motor as there was no wind and stopped at a 'Caribbean' Island for lunch then on to Vilagarcia. Yes, the trip was to conclude with the inevitable last tapas paid for by Zoe. 

Ginny And Zoe All Smiles
At The End Of A Wonderful Week.

Guy And Louise At The Last Tapas.

   It was a most wonderful week despite a few upset tummies and seasickness. We completed 140 NM in lovely weather. We enjoyed the sea, dolphins, culture, tapas and as always wonderful Galician hospitality. It was with a very heavy heart we said our sad farewell at 0500 on Monday morning but with wonderful memories of a very successful weeks visit by our lovely daughter Zoe. Many thanks to Louise for all your help and do visit us in Portugal. Tom, keep working on that Bowline!

Zoe, One Of Our Gorgeous  Daughters.

                 Kisti Two Is Missing You Already.

The Islands, Combarro and Pontevedra

    We departed Vigo on 3 September for the Islands. The first night was to be spent anchored off Isla De St Martin which proved to be a well sheltered bay from the wind and swell. It was only a short 2 hour journey from Vigo and there were about 10 boats in the anchorage with us, 7 of which left at sunset. There is a lovely beach but being a nature reserve, no walking inland on the island was permitted. Frustrating for Ginny who likes to explore every hill and cove! Still, it was a peaceful anchorage away from all the city lights of Vigo which reminded us of anchoring in the Hong Kong islands many years ago.

Skipper With The Islas Cies Ahead

Isla De St Martin Anchorage

Isla De St Martin Beach

Isla De Cies Anchorage From St Martin Bay.

Nightfall At Isla De St Martin.

      We reluctantly moved on 4 September to anchor off Rodas Beach on the Islas De Bayona, also called the Islas Cies. We first completed a tour between the islands off Mount Del Faro. Rodas anchorage had much more swell, mainly from the constant flow of tourist ferry boats bringing day trippers and campers to the island. The beach itself is stunning and has a large lagoon behind it which fills up with the tide. There are plenty of walks on the island to please everyone and a large well organised campsite. Guy decided to have a swim and after several attempts knowing it was 17C managed to flop in but was out quicker than his entry! The water has been disappointingly cold in the western rias but were informed they were much warmer earlier in the year. We awoke early in the morning to be surrounded by 6 small diving boats each with 2 to 4 divers and air pumps. They would spend about an hour below in 10 - 15 metres diving for clams to supply the many tapas bars.

Skippering Through The Islands

Mount Del Faro

Rodas Beach With Lagoon Behind

Rodas Beach Anchorage And Lagoon At Low Tide

Lagoon Causeway

Guy Braving Himself For A Swim (17C)

Surrounded By Early Morning Clam Diving Boats

Departing Islas Cies

     We departed for the final island, Isla Ons further north on a very dull cloudy day. We dropped the anchor for lunch and as the wind was picking up to an uncomfortable level, we decided to head up into and explore the Ria De Pontevedra. We followed the 20m contour line in past Porto Novo where we came across more Dolphins then headed right up the ria to the Isla Tambo to a very old fishing port called Combarro and a relatively new marina. 

Not More Dolphins!

Lighthouse On Isla Tambo

Fishing Boat Heaped Full Of Muscles From Viveros

    We took the opportunity to bus it into Pontevedra on Fri 6 September to visit the historic area of the city. It was again very similar to Santiago but this time with a large bull ring. There were the usual beautiful churches and old administrative buildings as well as houses, shops and tapas bars. The area seemed deserted so we stopped for our usual tapas lunch in one of the squares to use wifi and catch up on the world. After an excellent meal and free drinks provided by the proprietor we found out that the whole city was celebrating the following day with a massive medieval party. Joy to Guys ears!! We visited the very well organised museum also in a very old building and got a real feeling for the history of the city.

Guy The Bullfighter!!

Ginny At The Foot Of A Statue Celebrating The Defeat Of The French

Statue To The Weights Inspector

Church

The Church Of St Mary

The Tapas Square On Friday. See Saturday Picture Below!

     Combarro is an ancient fishing village which has been relatively unspoilt and developed for years, less the creation of several waterfront tapas bars and gift shops. It is a glorious village to amble around and get lost within the various narrow streets, alleyways and paths that weave their way around the small old solid rock fishing houses and farmers shacks. Little has changed except clever commercialisation of the village into a tourist hot spot. Much of the old way of life remains.

Combarro Fishing Village

Combarro Waterfront Tapas Bar. Very Greek.

    After a good rest in the morning, we returned to Pontevedra to attend the Medieval Party and what an amazing party this proved to be! The whole town seemed to turn out in full medieval costume dressed for the occasion. The whole of the historic area had been transferred overnight into a medieval film set and we entered probably the biggest party we will ever attend. It was fantastic. The Galicians were all so very friendly, welcoming, happy, charming and full of fun. They were all eating lunch at fully laid out banquet tables as we arrived and events took place all day with musicians moving around, much singing and plenty of drinking. However, there were no Police to be seen, there was no real drunkenness to be observed and everybody was clearly having a great time. As we have said before, the Galicians certainly know how to party. This party is held on the first Saturday of September every year. Put it in your diary combined with a visit to Combarro and Santiago and you will have a wonderful weekend. Don't forget your medieval kit! 

The Knights Templar

Obvious Why Guy Took This Picture!

A Medieval Street Scene

One Of Hundreds Of Street Banquets

Our Lunch Time Friends. The Owl Is Now On Kisti Two!

Ginny being chatted Up By A Street Peasant

The Whole Family Join In.

The Friday Tapas Square Now A Street Banquet

Guy And Knight Exchanging War Stories

Ginny Explaining How Sail mMaking Is Done Now

Never To Old To Be A Knight For a Day!

The Vegetable Market.

     We have stayed in Combarro for a week! It has proved to be a beautiful sheltered spot and a good marina while Guy tries to recover from a back problem. We don't know how it started and at first were convinced it was a kidney issue from too much tapas, wine, beer and partying but our good friendly doctor from UK thinks Guy has done something not too serious to his back and it is just age creeping up!! Oh dear. We have now got to know Combarro and its streets quite well. 

Fishing Boats And Combarro

Combarro Street Cross And Grain Stores

Grain Stores. They have To Be Preserved.

Narrow Combarro Street

Combarro Fishing House

    We will leave Combarro on Thursday 12 September and go to Vigo or Villagarcia to meet Zoe, Tom and Louise who are coming out to join us on Sunday for a week. Should be fun. The snap shot below shows were we are now, yellow arrow and the black track the route we have taken around the Bajas Rias. It is a fantastic area to sail with plenty of marinas, good anchorages and beaches, lovely wind and weather. It is relatively cheap with plenty of places to visit and most hospitable people. Much more enjoyable in every respect to over crowded and expensive western France. We cant recommend this area strongly enough to all those who have not ventured further than La Rochelle. Read Lord Tennysons poem, Ulysses and get inspired.