Monday, 15 January 2018

Heading East Along Turkish Coast, Marmaris To Cold Water Harbour. 31 Aug - 9 Sep

A Wonderful 10 Days Heading East Visiting Ancient Cities, Tombs And Wonderful Anchorages Between Marmaris And Cold Water Harbour.  31 August To 9 September 2017.   

1.      Marmaris To My Marina In Ekincik Cove. 31 August 2017.      Fully stocked up with water, fuel and food, we departed Marmaris Yacht Marine after having our pooo pumped out again. With a steady NW wind we sailed across eastwards exploring the coastline until we entered Ekincik Cove and explored the many anchorages. We came across 'My Marine' and just loved the location and setting so immediately reversed and tied up to the pier. It was a stunning spot and the whole complex had being built with a very eco-friendly theme along the lines of a yoga meditation centre. The electric boxes also had canvas put over them to give a more natural environment, plant pots were everywhere and it was all so clean and beautiful. Most of the buildings were hidden amongst the trees and the ablutions looked more like a massage centre from the far east with running water and fountains. As was custom, it was free to stay as long as you had your meal in the restaurant hidden amongst the trees with a lovely view overlooking the pier. The meal was first class although a little expensive, but well worth it all.   We stayed here for 2 most enjoyable nights.

Heading Eastwards Along The Rugged Coastline.

Kisti Two Tied Up On The Delightful 'My Marine'.

'My Marine' With Brown Cloth Flower Bags Over The Electric Meters.
All Very Eastern And Beautifully Completed In A Yoga Centre Style.

Kisti Two In The Middle With The Restaurant Roof Showing Through The Trees Above The Yachts.

2.     Visit To The Dalyan River Lycian Rock Tombs And Ancient City Of Caunos. 
1 September 2017.      The Dalyan River is just around the corner from 'My Marina', but is not navigable by yacht so we hired a boatman for the short trip round and up the river to the amazing Lycian Rock Tombs and Ancient City Of Caunos. It was to prove to be an amazing trip akin to going up the Mekong Delta! We motored round, crossed the bar at the rivers mouth and then worked our way meandering up the river through fish traps slowly heading North.

About To Cross The River Bar From Salt To Fresh Water.

Just Across The Bar With The Sea Beach To The Right.
A Tourist Magnet Only Reachable By Boat And A Turtle Birth Spot.

Buddha Meandering Up The River Delta.

Our Boatman Who Spent Most Of The Time On His Phone!

Looking Back At A Fish Trap Being Raised Once We Had Crossed Over.
Just Love The Starboard And Port Colours Of The Huts.

The Stunning Views And Very Far Eastern Landscape.

The Vegetable Boat Market Comes Whizzing Past.

3.    The Lycians And Rock Tombs. 1 September 2017.    Ancient Lycia occupied the area from the Dalyan River all the way round eastwards to Antalya consisting of the most wild and mountainous landscape in Turkey. The Lycians had a reputation for independence and on 2 occasions fought to the last man, once against the Persians in 546 BC and again against Brutus's Roman Army in 42BC. They were the last region to be incorporated into the Roman Empire in Asia Minor because of their deep rooted independence and natural boundary's. This coast has often been referred to as the Pirate Coast where it had strong connections to Piracy right up to the 18th and 19th Centuries when the British Navy tackled the problem and the coast was cleaned up. The sites of over 40 cities have been found in this area and an amazing amount of tombs and sarcophagi have been discovered. We came round a corner on the river and suddenly observed the most amazing collection of these Lycian tombs cut into the rocks. We were dropped off on the bank and left to explore the area on foot. 

A Collection Of Lycian Rock Tombs.
Amazing Lycian Rock Tombs Cut Into The Cliff.
Just Amazing. They Were Enormous.
This Is Turkey, Not Thailand! The Taxi Pier.

4.     The Ancient City Of Caunos. 1 September 2017.     We left the tombs and walked round to find the Ancient City Of Caunos not expecting to find much but stumbled across a most impressive scene and site. We found a path towards a small hill which turned out to be the acropolis. We went through some unattended gates and then found a large theatre in excellent condition, a large Roman bath very much intact and a Byzantine Church. Lower down where the original harbour silted up were signs of an old market place, swimming pools and shops. It is an amazing site still being worked on by Turkish archaeologists. Caunos was known as a disease ridden city, probably from malaria. It is an amazing site and well worth a visit.

Caunos Byzantine Church.

The Ancient Harbour Of Caunos Now Silted.
Ginny In One Of The Theatre Entrances.

The Theatre And One Of The Entrances.
Wheres Ginny?

Looking Over The Delta And City Walls To Right Of Picture.

X Marks The Spot! The Very Impressive Theatre.

Part Of The Roman Baths.

Theatre Entrance.

An Ancient Temple?

The Theatre, Church And Roman Baths From The Acropolis.
And Ginny!

The Market Place And Pool Area.

5.     The Return Trip Back To 'My Marine'.  1 September 2017.     Exhausted after exploring the various ancient sites, it was a relief to find our boatman as arranged and under the shade of his awning depart back to 'My Marine'. We could see all the sites as we departed behind us and it certainly leaves a lasting and fascinating impression of a once great society.

Our Boatman Waiting Below The Acropolis.

The Lycian Rock Tombs Above The Dalyan Delta.

The Acropolis From The River.

Approaching My Marine After A Wonderful Day Out.

Kisti Two At My Marine. A Most Stunning Spot.

It Does Not Get Much Better Than This! Swim Time.

Skopea Limani (Bay) 2 -9 September 2017.      

   6.   The Special Environmental Protection Area  (SEPA) Of  Skopea Limani.   We came into the Bay of Skopea on 2 September with high hopes of stunning scenery and anchorages and we were not disappointed. Sailors have been known to spend a whole summer in this area and we can understand why although we do prefer a change of scenery. It is an area that has been protected very carefully with laws prohibiting any construction of hotels or roads creating an area of outstanding natural beauty and I believe our photographs certainly reflect that. It is an area you can only visit by boat. It is therefore a popular cruising spot for yachts and gullets with plenty of wonderful anchorages. Small restaurants have now appeared in several of the bays and all the requirements to live are now provided by boat to your boat wherever yo may be tied up. There are 3 supermarket boats operating including the enormous Migros Supermarket boat complete with ATM machine. The pooo boat comes around emptying tanks, a baker comes around each morning with freshly made bread closely followed by the vegetable market boat. Only alcohol is not delivered, but we were well prepared for a week in the bay with extra beer purchased in Marmaris. We loved this bay and thoroughly enjoyed our week. The chart picture below reflects our locations, sailing routes in black and walks in green.

Our Weeks Stay In Skopea Bay.
Arrival To Kapi Creek on 2 Sep (Black Dots), Walk Around 3 Sep (Green 1),
Exploration Sail 4 Sep (Black Line) To Sarsla Koya,
Walk To Ancient City Of Lydae 5 Sep (Green), Sail To Sarsla Bay 5 Sep
And Finally Sail Out 9 Sep (Dotted Black) Via Gocek To Cold Water Bay.

7.    'My Marina' To Kapi Creek 2 September 2017.    We left My Marina early at 0730 on 2 September and motored round all the way into Skopea Limani and up into Kapi Creek. It looked so lovely and empty that we found a lovely spot and tied up to the pier that belonged to the restaurant. We stayed here and enjoyed a wonderful meal in the restaurant and also a few ice creams from the shop boats that provided everything you would ever need except alcohol. Guy even helped one of these shop boats cut off a mass of blue rope that had got tangled up with the prop. The setting here was stunning and we met several Turkish sailors all giving us excellent advice on where to stay.

Entering Skopea Limani.
Kisti Two Tied Up In Kapi Creek. Shop Boat Calling In.

Kisti Two Complete With Extra Sun Awnings. It Was 40C And No Wind.

Ginny Shopping In The Carrefour Boat Shop.

8.   Walk Around The Hills.  3 September 2017.     We decided that a walk would be good for us so set out to see what we could discover, and what a wonderful walk it turned out to be. We had views all over the bay and eastward towards Fethiye. It was a very hot 4 hour walk and we enjoyed a most wonderful and refreshing swim in Kapi Creek on return.

Looking Down Into Ravine Cove.

An English Yacht Anchored In Ravine Cove.
Our Walk Took Us Around The Top Left Of The Picture.

Looking East To Ragged Bay.

Kapi Creek. Kisti Two Just Visible.

Looking North To Domuz Island.

Looking North Towards Gocek.

Looking West In Skopea Limani.

Looking West To Fathom Cove And Wall Bay From Point 212.

The Restaurant At Kapi Creek With Kisti Two.

9.     Exploration Sail Around Skopea Bay.  4 September 2017.       We left at a leisurely time  of 1000 hrs on 4 September aware that a nasty westerly would blow into Kapi Creek so headed out for an exploration sail around the bays and islands of Skopea Bay. We had a fantastic time tacking our way around and avoiding the many other boats and rocks. We ended up in 22 Fathom Bay tied to a rather tired restaurant pier tucked in much shelter. They were a charming family and so we agreed to try their Wild Boar meal that night that turned out to be delicious. We awoke in the morning to the whole family all at work making bread in a wood fired oven that the lovely daughter then took around to all the boats that morning. Several boats have a standing order for bread which frankly was delicious. All made in a real field kitchen atmosphere.

Sarsala Cove.

22 Fathom Cove.

Deep Bay.

Seagull Bay. So Peaceful.

Manaster Cove.

Wall Bay. You Can Just See The Ancient City Wall Behind Second Boat On Left.

Cold Beer And Delicious Wild Boar.

Preparing The Bread Mixture.

Bread In The Oven.


Bread And Cake Boat Preparing For Delivery.
The Bread Man. A Qualified Baker From Gocek.
More Lycian Tombs Carved In The Hills.

The Migros Shop Boat Coming Round To All The Yachts On Its Daily Visit.
Kisti Two Tied To The Old Pier Of 22 Fathom Cove.

10.     Walk Up To The Ancient City Of Lydea.  5 September 2017.     We decided to find the Ancient City Of Lydea and so as usual set off without map, compass or much idea of where the city had been located.  We walked along the coast to start with before climbing high up on a steep path to a plateau. We followed a path through a beautiful pine forest until we found an ancient path that led us onto a wonderful large isolated plateau with a few signs of farmers around. We suddenly spotted several ruins and were able to identify the market place, Roman baths and 2 large mausoleums in great condition. It was a fascinating real Indianna Jones experience with so much history lying around and no 'National Trust' sign to stop you exploring it all or charging an extortionate amount. The views over to the east were amazing. It was a lovely walk although very hot. The only problem was that Guy jumped into the cooling sea on return to Kisti Two complete with mobile phone in his pocket. The worst aspect was losing so many wonderful photographs he had captured over the last week, especially panoramas. Fool, Idiot and Plonker all spring to mind. He was however joined by a very friendly turtle that the baker fed with bread.

Kisti Two In 22 Fathom Cove As We walk Along The Coast.
Climbing Up Looking Back Towards 22 Fathom Cove And Wall Bay Beyond.
Looking East Towards Seagull Cove.
The Steep Climb Up Looking NW To 22 Fathom Cove.
A Lycians Sarcophagi We Discovered.
A Well Earned Rest Looking North To Gocek.
Goats Among The Ruins.
The Site Was Littered With Inscriptions Just Lying Around.
Ginny At The Basilica Tower.

An Amazing Construction. What Is It? A Mausoleum?
The View Looking Eastwards Towards Fethiye.
A Second Mausoleum?
Ginny Being Used For Scale.
An Ancient Water Cistern Still Being Used By The Farmers Today.

The Whole Site Of Lydea.
Wheres Ginny?
A Second Water Cistern Still In Use.
Walking Back Through The Pine Forest.
Looking Over The Whole Of Skopea Bay
Skopea Limani
22 Fathom Cove.
Simply Wonderful. Migros Shop Boat Coming Round.
So Peaceful. Just Drop The Anchor And Tie Up To A Tree Ashore.
Kisti Two In 22 Fathom Cove.
Just Delightful.

The Friendly Turtle Coming For Bread.

11.    Tied To A Buoy And Trees In Sarsala Bay.   5 - 9 September 2017.      Another strong breeze was predicted so we motored round the 2NM to Sarsala Bay right next to Pilloried Cove to tie up to a buoy and the trees. We were rather shattered from our walk so wanted a couple of days rest. Ian and Gaille from Princess Orsini were in the area and keen to meet up so we were happy to stay put. It was a lovely spot where we were joined by squirrels and turtles. We also managed to get onto the Migros boat for resupply and draw out another 1000TL as cash was running low. Gaille and Ian joined us and we enjoyed several sessions of drinks and tales of nautical adventures. It was a lovely spot to relax.

Tied Up To The Shore In Pilloried Cove. Note The Pillor Left Of Ensign.

Kisti Two And Princess Orsini.

Sunset Over  Skopea Limani.

Skopea Limani To Cold Water Harbour Via Gocek And Fethiye. 9 September 2017.

The Route From Skopea Limani To Gocek, Fethiye And Finally Cold Water Harbour.
9 September 2017.

12.    Pilloried Bay To Gocek.      It was time to move on so we left Gaille and Iain and headed North towards Gocek at 0945 hrs under power exploring the various coves. And who did we find, but 'Stealthsands' tucked up in Boynuzbuku  all alone hiding from everyone. We had a quick chat and then continued on our way to Gocek. Gocek, another major yachting centre was just full of gullets and yachts. There are several marinas but gullets seemed to be taking up most of the space. 

Departing Sarsila Koyu.

The Peace And Tranquility That Is Skopea Bay.

Ginny Happy To Be On The Move Again.

'Stealthsands' Hiding In The Bushes!!!!!!!

Dave And Ali Of 'Whitesands'.

Heading Into Gocek Bay.

Gocek Marina Full Of Gullets.

13.      Gocek To Fethiye.    We left Gocek at 1145 hrs and sailed off SE towards Fethiye. It was good to be under canvas again and we enjoyed the challenge of sailing in past the rugged coastline. We turned around in Fethiye and were heading back out when 'Stealthsands' was spotted sailing in to meet up with family who were coming out for a weeks visit. Like two ships passing in the night, we waved goodbye to each other and we continued on our trip South East. Fethiye looked like a useful port for the future. 

The Rugged Rocky Coastline.

'Whitesands' Entering Fethiye.

Dave And Ali On 'Whitesands' Storming Past.

Kisti Two Sailing Past Whitesands.

14.   Fethiye To Cold Water Harbour.     The wind died down after leaving Fethiye so we motored on South around the headland of Dokukbasi and then North up towards Gemiler Adasi to find a spot for the night.  It was fascinating going round Gemiler Island with all its ruins reported to be from the Byzantine era although it has also been described as a pirate stronghold which is most likely given the protection and defensibility of it. We continued round the island to a small cove commonly called Cold Water Harbour in a very narrow inlet. It was a fascinating anchorage and the water is certainly exceedingly cold coming up from a spring. A most refreshing swim. You can walk up to the deserted Greek village of Kaya from here but we were to late to venture out as it was 1800 hrs by the time we tied up safely for the night. We did however join several CA members for a meal in Ali's restaurant enjoying another plate of excellent wild boar.

Ruins On Karacaoren Island.

Ruins On Gemilir Island.

A Most Hideous Gullet!!

The Ruins On Gemiler Island. An Old Pirate Hideaway.

Kisti Two Tied Up In Cold Water Harbour.

The Small Inlet Of Cold Water Harbour.

Looking Down From Ali's Restaurant.
Kisti Two Next To The Red Boat.